Introduction: Island Peak Climbing
Island Peak, locally known as Imja Tse, is Nepal’s most sought-after climbing peak. It’s perfect for beginners or those looking to gain high-altitude climbing experience. The peak was named Island Peak in 1953 by Eric Shipton’s team because it appears as an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche.
Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is one of Nepal’s most popular trekking peaks, standing at an impressive 6,189 meters (20,305 feet). Located in the Everest region, it offers a perfect blend of trekking and mountaineering, making it an ideal choice for both novice climbers and experienced adventurers. This guide provides a detailed overview of the Everest Base Camp and Island Peak Climbing journey, including highlights, itinerary, costs, permits, accommodations, and essential tips for a successful expedition.
Island Peak Climbing is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that combines the thrill of trekking to Everest Base Camp with the challenge of summiting a Himalayan peak. With proper preparation, the right gear, and the support of experienced guides, you can achieve this incredible feat and create memories that will last a lifetime.
Don’t worry if your beginner Our expert climbing guides will provide training on using climbing gear at Base Camp, ensuring your safety and confidence. With a ratio of one guide for every 3-4 climbers, we prioritize your safety and success.
The climbing part of the Island Peak expedition starts at Island Peak Base Camp (5,100 meters). From there, you’ll undergo training, prepare for the summit push, and begin the climb early in the morning. The route involves steep snow and ice slopes, crevasses, and a challenging headwall, culminating in the exhilarating summit experience.
If you’re ready to take on this adventure, Holiday Tours Nepal is here to guide you every step of the way. Contact us today to plan your Island Peak Climbing expedition!
Contact Holiday Tours Nepal today to start your journey to the roof of the world!
What is the grade of Island Peak?
Island Peak is graded as PD+, which means ‘Per Difficult’ taken from French and Swiss Alpine Climbing Classification Systems, where the climb leads on long snow lines, moraines, and glaciers with some technical effort to tackle, where climbers should be in good physical shape with adequate climbing gear required.
How does the Island Peak climb start and end?
Starting our adventure, the Island Peak-Imjatse Himal Climb and trek, after reaching Lukla from Kathmandu, taking a swift short flight, where the walk leads through nice farm Sherpa villages around the Dudh Kosi River valley.
The walk continues with a climb to reach the famous Namche Bazaar, stopping for two whole nights for acclimatization purposes before heading to higher terrain. Namche is an interesting town/village with facilities of banks, ATMs, many good restaurants, and lodges/resorts, including well-stocked shops and stores.
From Namche onward, walk into green tree lines of blue pines, firs, and rhododendron with views along the trail facing Everest-Lhotse and majestic Ama Dablam, including an array of peaks, and then slowly reaching a beautiful spot at Thyangboche with time to visit its interesting monastery surrounded with snow-capped peaks and woodland.
After Tengboche, we head into wild, open, windswept country to reach scenic Imjatse Valley at Dingboche and Chukung, where our true adventure begins, heading towards Island Peak base camp with ample time for practice and rest before the summit on top of Island Peak.
With enough rest and preparation, aim higher following our expert guide to reach the summit of Island Peak/Imjatse Himal surrounded by a mind-blowing panorama of peaks. After feeling high and in great spirits, descend back to Chukung and then on the trail back to Lukla for a sweeping flight to Kathmandu after a remarkable and mesmerizing adventure on Island Peak climbing and treks.
Itinerary Overview of Island Peak Climbing
The journey begins with a scenic flight to Lukla, followed by a trek through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche Monastery, and Dingboche. After reaching Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar, the adventure diverges as you head towards Island Peak.
Best places to stop and enjoy during Island Peak Climbing
- Namche Bazaar: The gateway to the Everest region and a hub for Sherpa culture.
- Tengboche Monastery: The highest monastery in the region, offering spiritual solace and stunning views.
- Dingboche: A picturesque village surrounded by towering peaks.
- Lobuche: A stopover before heading to Gorakshep and Everest Base Camp.
- Gorakshep: The last settlement before Everest Base Camp.
- Chukung: The starting point for the Island Peak climb.
Key Points About the Climbing Section
- Technical Difficulty: Island Peak is considered a moderate climb, suitable for beginners with basic mountaineering skills.
- Climbing Gear: Crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and ropes are essential for the climb. These are usually rented at Chukung or at Dingboche.
- Guided Climb: The climb is fully guided, with experienced Sherpa climbers ensuring your safety and success.
Where does the climbing part start and during island peak climbing
The trek from Chukung (4,730 meters / 15,518 feet) to Island Peak Base Camp takes about 3-4 hours. This section involves a steady climb through rocky terrain and moraines, offering stunning views of Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam.
Before reaching the climbing section, trekkers will trek through the Everest region, passing iconic locations like Namche Bazaar, Tengboche Monastery, Dingboche, and Chukung. The trek to Island Peak Base Camp is a gradual ascent, allowing for proper acclimatization.
From Island Peak Base Camp, the summit push begins early (around 1 am) to avoid high winds. Witness a breathtaking sunrise over the Himalayas from the summit.
Descend to Dingboche and retrace your steps to Lukla.
Best Time to Climb: April-May and October-November are the ideal seasons for stable weather
Summit Push: The Climbing Begins
The actual climbing starts early in the morning, usually around 1:00 AM, to ensure you reach the summit before the high winds pick up later in the day. Here’s what the climbing section involves:
From Base Camp to High Camp (Optional):
- Some teams choose to set up a High Camp (5,600 meters / 18,373 feet) to shorten the summit day.
- This involves a 2-3 hour climb from the base camp over rocky and icy terrain.
- From Base Camp/High Camp to the Summit:
- The climb begins in the dark, with headlamps lighting the way.
The route involves:
- Steep snow and ice slopes: You’ll use crampons and ice axes to navigate these sections.
- Crevasses: The guide will help you safely cross crevasses using fixed ropes.
- Headwall: The most challenging part of the climb is the 40–45-degree ice wall near the summit. Fixed ropes are used to ascend this section.
- After the headwall, you’ll traverse a ridge to reach the summit (6,189 meters / 20,305 feet).
Summit Experience:
- The climb to the summit takes 6-8 hours from the base camp (or 4-5 hours from the high camp).
- At the summit, you’ll be rewarded with unparalleled views of Himalayan giants like Everes t, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and Makalu.
Descent:
After celebrating at the summit, you’ll descend back to the base camp, which takes 3-4 hours.
From the base camp, you’ll continue trekking to Chukung or Dingboche for an overnight stay.
What are the preparations done at Island peak base camp
Training Session:
- Your climbing guide will conduct a training session to teach you essential mountaineering skills.
- You’ll learn how to use climbing gear such as crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and ropes.
- The guide will also explain the climbing route, safety protocols, and techniques for navigating steep sections and crevasses.
Rest and Preparation:
- After the training, you’ll rest and prepare for the summit push.
- The team will check all climbing gear and ensure everyone is ready for the climb.
Overnight Stay:
- You’ll spend the night at the base camp in tented accommodation.
- A professional trekking chef will prepare high-energy meals to fuel your climb.
What are the types of tea houses available during Island Peak climbing?
Tea houses are the lifeline of trekking routes in Nepal. These are simple, family-run lodges offering basic yet warm and welcoming amenities.
- Type of Room: Twin-sharing rooms with two single beds. Basic bedding is provided, but a high-quality sleeping bag is recommended.
- Facilities: Shared bathrooms with squat or Western-style toilets. Hot showers are available for an additional fee (2–2–5).
- Dining: Communal dining areas with meals like Dal Bhat (rice and lentils), pasta, noodles, and pancakes.
- Electricity and Charging: Available for a small fee, though power may be limited at higher altitudes.
- Wi-Fi: Available in many tea houses for a small cost, though the connection can be slow.
How is Camping at Island Peak Base Camp
For the Island Peak climbing section, accommodations shift to tents, offering a more rugged yet exhilarating experience close to nature.
- Tent Setup: Sturdy, all-weather tents with sleeping mats. A reliable sleeping bag suitable for extreme cold is essential.
- Dining Tent: A separate tent for meals and team meetings.
- Meals: Prepared by a professional trekking chef, featuring high-energy and nutritious food.
- Toilet Facilities: Portable toilet tents for hygiene and comfort.
- Support Staff: A dedicated team of guides, porters, and cooks ensures a smooth experience.
Island peak climbing cost breakdown
- Permits: 150–150–200 (Sagarmatha National Park, TIMS, and Island Peak Climbing Permit).
- Guide and Porter Fees: 25–25–30 per day.
- Accommodation: 3–3–10 per night in tea houses; camping included in the package.
- Meals: 5–5–15 per meal.
- Gear Rental: 50–50–100 (available in Kathmandu).
- Miscellaneous: Tips, Wi-Fi, charging, and hot showers.
- Estimated Total: 2,500–2,500–3,500.
Permits Required for Island peak climbing
- Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit: $30.
- Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit: $20.
- Island Peak Climbing Permit:
- Spring (March-May): $250.
- Autumn (September-November): $125.
- Winter/Summer: $70.
Altitude and Acclamation during Island peak climbing
- Altitude Zones: The trek ranges from 2,860 m (Lukla) to 6,189 m (Island Peak Summit).
- Acclimatization Days: Rest days in Namche Bazaar (3,440 m) and Dingboche (4,410 m) with short hikes to higher altitudes.
- Preventive Measures: Stay hydrated, ascend gradually, and consider medications like Diamox.
Physical and Mental Preparation for Island peak climbing
- Fitness: Focus on cardio, strength training, and hiking.
- Gear: Warm clothing, sturdy boots, climbing harness, crampons, and a sleeping bag rated for -20°C.
- Insurance: Ensure coverage for high-altitude trekking and emergency evacuation.
What is the best time to climb Island Peak?
Spring (April-May): Blooming rhododendrons, moderate temperatures, and stable climbing conditions.
Autumn (October-November): Clear skies, dry trails, and excellent visibility.
Wildlife and Nature seen at the trail of Island Peak
Trek through Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, home to Himalayan wildlife like musk deer, Himalayan tahr, and the colorful Himalayan Monal. The diverse landscapes include rhododendron forests, alpine meadows, and glacial terrains.
Why to select Holiday Tours Nepal?
- Experienced Sherpa Guides: Our team knows Island Peak inside out.
- Safety First: We prioritize your well-being with proper acclimatization and safety measures.
- Comprehensive Support: From permits to gear, we handle all logistics.
- Cultural Immersion: Experience the warmth and hospitality of Sherpa communities.
Outline Itinerary for Island Peak Climbing
- Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu.
- Day 02: Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding.
- Day 03: Trek to Namche Bazaar.
- Day 04: Acclimatization day in Namche.
- Day 05: Trek to Tengboche.
- Day 06: Trek to Dingboche.
- Day 07: Acclimatization day in Dingboche.
- Day 08: Trek to Lobuche.
- Day 09: Trek to Gorakshep, visit Everest Base Camp.
- Day 10: Hike to Kala Patthar, return to Dingboche.
- Day 11: Trek to Chukung.
- Day 12: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp.
- Day 13: Summit Island Peak, return to Chukung.
- Day 14: Trek to Dingboche.
- Day 15: Trek to Namche.
- Day 16: Trek to Lukla.
- Day 17: Fly to Kathmandu.
- Day 18: Final departure.
Join Us for an Unforgettable Adventure
With Holiday Tours Nepal, you’ll experience the perfect blend of trekking, climbing, and cultural immersion. Whether you’re a first-time climber or an experienced adventurer, our team is dedicated to making your Island Peak climb safe, enjoyable, and unforgettable.
Contact us today to book your journey to the roof of the world!
