Introduction: Island Peak Climbing
Island Peak, locally known as Imja Tse, is Nepal’s most sought-after climbing peak. It’s perfect for beginners or those looking to gain high-altitude climbing experience. The peak was named Island Peak in 1953 by Eric Shipton’s team because it appears as an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche.
Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is one of Nepal’s most popular trekking peaks, standing at an impressive 6,189 meters (20,305 feet). Located in the Everest region, it offers a perfect blend of trekking and mountaineering, making it an ideal choice for both novice climbers and experienced adventurers. This guide provides a detailed overview of the Everest Base Camp and Island Peak Climbing journey, including highlights, itinerary, costs, permits, accommodations, and essential tips for a successful expedition.
Island Peak Climbing is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that combines the thrill of trekking to Everest Base Camp with the challenge of summiting a Himalayan peak. With proper preparation, the right gear, and the support of experienced guides, you can achieve this incredible feat and create memories that will last a lifetime.
Don’t worry if you're a beginner.. Our expert climbing guides will provide training on using climbing gear at Base Camp, ensuring your safety and confidence. With a ratio of one guide for every 3-4 climbers, we prioritize your safety and success.
The climbing part of the Island Peak expedition starts at Island Peak Base Camp (5,100 meters). From there, you’ll undergo training, prepare for the summit push, and begin the climb early in the morning. The route involves steep snow and ice slopes, crevasses, and a challenging headwall, culminating in the exhilarating summit experience.
If you’re ready to take on this adventure, Holiday Tours Nepal is here to guide you every step of the way. Contact us today to plan your Island Peak Climbing expedition!
Contact Holiday Tours Nepal today to start your journey to the roof of the world!
What is the grade of Island Peak?
Island Peak is graded as PD+, which means ‘Per Difficult’ taken from French and Swiss Alpine Climbing Classification Systems, where the climb leads on long snow lines, moraines, and glaciers with some technical effort to tackle, where climbers should be in good physical shape with adequate climbing gear required.
How does the Island Peak climb start and end?
Starting our adventure, the Island Peak-Imjatse Himal Climb and trek, after reaching Lukla from Kathmandu, taking a swift short flight, where the walk leads through nice farm Sherpa villages around the Dudh Kosi River valley.
The walk continues with a climb to reach the famous Namche Bazaar, stopping for two whole nights for acclimatization purposes before heading to higher terrain. Namche is an interesting town/village with facilities of banks, ATMs, many good restaurants, and lodges/resorts, including well-stocked shops and stores.
From Namche onward, walk into green tree lines of blue pines, firs, and rhododendron with views along the trail facing Everest-Lhotse and majestic Ama Dablam, including an array of peaks, and then slowly reaching a beautiful spot at Thyangboche with time to visit its interesting monastery surrounded by snow-capped peaks and woodland.
After Tengboche, we head into wild, open, windswept country to reach scenic Imjatse Valley at Dingboche and Chukung, where our true adventure begins. heading towards Island Peak base camp with ample time for practice and rest before the summit on top of Island Peak.
With enough rest and preparation, aim higher following our expert guide to reach the summit of Island Peak/Imjatse Himal, surrounded by a mind-blowing panorama of peaks. After feeling high and in great spirits, descend back to Chukung and then on the trail back to Lukla for a sweeping flight to Kathmandu after a remarkable and mesmerizing adventure on Island Peak climbing and treks.
Itinerary Overview of Island Peak Climbing
The journey begins with a scenic flight to Lukla, followed by a trek through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche Monastery, and Dingboche. After reaching Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar, the adventure diverges as you head towards Island Peak.
Best places to stop and enjoy during Island Peak Climbing
- Namche Bazaar: The gateway to the Everest region and a hub for Sherpa culture.
- Tengboche Monastery: The highest monastery in the region, offering spiritual solace and stunning views.
- Dingboche: A picturesque village surrounded by towering peaks.
- Lobuche: A stopover before heading to Gorakshep and Everest Base Camp.
- Gorakshep: The last settlement before Everest Base Camp.
- Chukung: The starting point for the Island Peak climb.
Key Points About the Climbing Section
- Technical Difficulty: Island Peak is considered a moderate climb, suitable for beginners with basic mountaineering skills.
- Climbing Gear: Crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and ropes are essential for the climb. These are usually rented at Chukung or at Dingboche.
- Guided Climb: The climb is fully guided with experienced Sherpa climbers ensuring your safety and success.
Island peak climbing daily altitude and distance
Here is a detailed Island Peak Climbing daily trek itinerary, including walking distance, altitude gain, and altitude loss in a clear table format:
Day | Route | Start Altitude (m) | End Altitude (m) | Distance (km) | Altitude Gain (m) | Altitude Loss (m) | Duration (hrs) |
1 | Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding | 2,840 | 2,610 | 8 | 100 | 330 | 3–4 |
2 | Phakding to Namche Bazaar | 2,610 | 3,440 | 12 | 830 | 0 | 5–6 |
3 | Acclimatization in Namche | 3,440 | 3,440 (hike to ~3,900) | 4–5 (round trip) | 460 | 460 | 3–4 (hike) |
4 | Namche to Tengboche | 3,440 | 3,860 | 10 | 580 | 160 | 5–6 |
5 | Tengboche to Dingboche | 3,860 | 4,410 | 11 | 700 | 150 | 5–6 |
6 | Acclimatization in Dingboche | 4,410 | 4,410 (hike to ~4,900) | 4–5 (round trip) | 490 | 490 | 3–4 (hike) |
7 | Dingboche to Chhukung | 4,410 | 4,730 | 6 | 320 | 0 | 3–4 |
8 | Chhukung to Island Peak Base Camp | 4,730 | 5,100 | 4 | 370 | 0 | 3–4 |
9 | Summit Island Peak, back to Chhukung | 5,100 | 4,730 | 12–14 (round trip) | 1,089 | 1,459 | 10–13 |
10 | Chhukung to Pangboche | 4,730 | 3,930 | 12 | 100 | 900 | 5–6 |
11 | Pangboche to Namche Bazaar | 3,930 | 3,440 | 14 | 200 | 690 | 6–7 |
12 | Namche to Lukla | 3,440 | 2,840 | 21 | 300 | 900 | 6–7 |
13 | Fly back to Kathmandu | 2,840 | 1,400 | - | - | - | 35 min flight |
Where does the climbing part start, and during island peak climbing
The trek from Chukung (4,730 meters / 15,518 feet) to Island Peak Base Camp takes about 3-4 hours. This section involves a steady climb through rocky terrain and moraines, offering stunning views of Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam.
Before reaching the climbing section, trekkers will trek through the Everest region, passing iconic locations like Namche Bazaar, Tengboche Monastery, Dingboche, and Chukung. The trek to Island Peak Base Camp is a gradual ascent, allowing for proper acclimatization.
From Island Peak Base Camp, the summit push begins early (around 1 am) to avoid high winds. Witness a breathtaking sunrise over the Himalayas from the summit.
Descend to Dingboche and retrace your steps to Lukla.
Best Time to Climb: April- May and October- November are the ideal seasons for stable weather
Summit Push: The Climbing Begins
The actual climbing starts early in the morning, usually around 1:00 AM, to ensure you reach the summit before the high winds pick up later in the day. Here’s what the climbing section involves:
From Base Camp to High Camp (Optional):
- Some teams choose to set up a High Camp (5,600 meters / 18,373 feet) to shorten the summit day.
- This involves a 2-3 hour climb from the base camp over rocky and icy terrain.
- From Base Camp/High Camp to the Summit:
- The climb begins in the dark, with headlamps lighting the way.
The route involves:
- Steep snow and ice slopes: You’ll use crampons and ice axes to navigate these sections.
- Crevasses: The guide will help you safely cross crevasses using fixed ropes.
- Headwall: The most challenging part of the climb is the 40–45-degree ice wall near the summit. Fixed ropes are used to ascend this section.
- After the headwall, you’ll traverse a ridge to reach the summit (6,189 meters / 20,305 feet).
Summit Experience:
- The climb to the summit takes 6-8 hours from the base camp (or 4-5 hours from the high camp).
- At the summit, you’ll be rewarded with unparalleled views of Himalayan giants like Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and Makalu.
Descent:
After celebrating at the summit, you’ll descend back to the base camp, which takes 3-4 hours.
From the base camp, you’ll continue trekking to Chukung or Dingboche for an overnight stay.
How to prepare for Island Peak base camp
Training Session:
- Your climbing guide will conduct a training session to teach you essential mountaineering skills.
- You’ll learn how to use climbing gear such as crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and ropes.
- The guide will also explain the climbing route, safety protocols, and techniques for navigating steep sections and crevasses.
Rest and Preparation:
- After the training, you’ll rest and prepare for the summit push.
- The team will check all climbing gear and ensure everyone is ready for the climb.
Overnight Stay:
- You’ll spend the night at the base camp in a tented accommodation.
- A professional trekking chef will prepare high-energy meals to fuel your climb.
How difficult is trekking till the high camp of island peak
Trekking start after landing in Lukla the walk towards Phakding is easy and climbers descend 200 meters below Lukla and reach towards Phakding. Second day the walk towards Namche after having lunch at Jorsale involves 3 hours of climbing towards namche which can be hard and is the second hardest day. After resting in Namche, we head towards Tengboche visit Tengboche monastery which is a moderate day and involves 2 hours of climb after having lunch. After Tengboche monastery we head towards Dingboche which is situated at an altitude of 4410 meters and spend the night there.
The herds part starts now as we make our way towards 4500 meters plus and make our way towards Lobuche and spend the night at 4900 meters. After Lobuche we go towards Gorakshep at 5100 meters and head towards the base camp and come back and spend the night at Gorakshep. After completing base camp, we make our hike towards Dingboche and spend the night there.
Now we head towards Chukung from Dingboche which will be a short hike and we will rest there and check our gears and equipment’s. From Chukung we head towards the high camp which will mark the end of the trek and now the summit part is the target.
How difficult is the climbing part of island peak?
After reaching towards the high camp of island peak from Chukung we make our way towards high camp. We will be sleeping on a tent at high camp an according to the pace of the climber our climbing sherpa will select the time for beginning the climb. After walking for a certain distance, we reach the crampon point from where crampons are compulsory to wear. The we make our way towards the summit and after summiting we make our way back to Chukung,
The climbing part is difficult after Chukung we head towards the base camp which is 5100 meters and from there we must go towards the high camp which is situated at an altitude of 5500 meters and from there we head towards the summit. The summit part is at an altitude of 6189 meters which is 600 meters and 700 meters further up from the high camp and this can be challenging. After 6000 meter the steps might feel heavy and the last 150 meters can be very exhausting this is the section where climbers give up a lot and have secondary thoughts.
How is Camping at Island Peak Base Camp
For the Island Peak climbing section, accommodations shift to tents, offering a more rugged yet exhilarating experience close to nature.
- Tent Setup: Sturdy, all-weather tents with sleeping mats. A reliable sleeping bag suitable for extreme cold is essential.
- Dining Tent: A separate tent for meals and team meetings.
- Meals: Prepared by a professional trekking chef, featuring high-energy and nutritious food.
- Toilet Facilities: Portable toilet tents for hygiene and comfort.
- Support Staff: A dedicated team of guides, porters, and cooks ensures a smooth experience.
What are the types of tea houses available during Island Peak climbing?
Tea houses are the lifeline of trekking routes in Nepal. These are simple, family-run lodges offering basic yet warm and welcoming amenities.
- Type of Room: Twin-sharing rooms with two single beds. Basic bedding is provided, but a high-quality sleeping bag is recommended.
- Facilities: Shared bathrooms with squat or Western-style toilets. Hot showers are available for an additional fee (2–2–5).
- Dining: Communal dining areas with meals like Dal Bhat (rice and lentils), pasta, noodles, and pancakes.
- Electricity and Charging: Available for a small fee, though power may be limited at higher altitudes.
- Wi-Fi: Available in many tea houses for a small cost, though the connection can be slow.
Island peak climbing cost breakdown
- Permits: 150–150–200 (Sagarmatha National Park, TIMS, and Island Peak Climbing Permit).
- Guide and Porter Fees: 25–25–30 per day.
- Accommodation: 3–3–10 per night in tea houses; camping included in the package.
- Meals: 5–5–15 per meal.
- Gear Rental: 50–50–100 (available in Kathmandu).
- Miscellaneous: Tips, Wi-Fi, charging, and hot showers.
- Estimated Total: 2,500–2,500–3,500.
Permits Required for Climbing Island Peak
- Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit: $30.
- Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Permit: $20.
- Island Peak Climbing Permit:
- Spring (March- May): $250.
- Autumn (September-November): $125.
- Winter/Summer: $70.
Altitude and Acclamation during Island peak climbing
- Altitude Zones: The trek ranges from 2,860 m (Lukla) to 6,189 m (Island Peak Summit).
- Acclimatization Days: Rest days in Namche Bazaar (3,440 m) and Dingboche (4,410 m) with short hikes to higher altitudes.
- Preventive Measures: Stay hydrated, ascend gradually, and consider medications like Diamox.
Physical and Mental Preparation for Island peak climbing
- Fitness: Focus on cardio, strength training, and hiking.
- Gear: Warm clothing, sturdy boots, climbing harness, crampons, and a sleeping bag rated for -20°C.
- Insurance: Ensure coverage for high-altitude trekking and emergency evacuation.
Acclimation process during island peak climbing?
For the acclimation we use and recommend the following process:
- Walking slow in a pace that suits best for the climbers according to their own preference.
- Drinking 3 liters of water per day 2 liters of water per day and one liter of electrolyte.
- Consuming nutritious food
- Sleeping for at least 6-8 hours per day
- Having a rest day in Namche and hiking up to 3800 meters
- Having a rest day in Dingboche and hiking up to 5000 meters plus.
- Spending a day at high camp to reduce the summit distance
What is the best month or season to climb island peak?
Spring (April- May): Blooming rhododendrons, moderate temperatures, and stable climbing conditions.
Autumn (October-November): Clear skies, dry trails, and excellent visibility.
Wildlife and Nature seen on the trail of Island Peak
Trek through Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, home to Himalayan wildlife like musk deer, Himalayan tahr, and the colorful Himalayan Monal. The diverse landscapes include rhododendron forests, alpine meadows, and glacial terrains.
Gears to pack for island peak climbing
Suggested Equipment List for climbing.
- Duffel/Rucksack bag (We provide one complimentary duffel bag to be returned after the trip).
- Day pack.
- Trekking shoes.
- Sports shoes or sandals.
- Sun Hat/cap.
- Warm woolen cap.
- Warm fleece jacket or puffy jacket.
- Waterproof Gore-Tex layer.
- Pullover or warm sweeter.
- Raincoat.
- 4/5 pairs of good quality socks.
- Hand gloves.
- 2/3 pairs of trekking trousers.
- 3/4 pairs of trekking shirts.
- 3/4 pairs of underwear (non-cotton preferred).
- Sun glasses.
- Water bottle.
- 4 season sleeping bag (Optional/we can provide one if you need it. It is to be returned after the trip).
- Flash or Torch light.
- Camera and batteries.
For Climbing.
- Plastic Boot a pair.
- Crampons a pair.
- Ice Axe one.
- Harness one.
- Carabineer or Karabiner two each.
- Snow Gaiters a pair.
- Snow/Sun Glass one each.
- Warm Gloves a pair.
- Wind Proof Jacket and Trouser a set each.
- Main Ropes 200 m (50 m per person) as per the peak chosen.
- Snow Bar 2 / 4 pieces depending upon group size.
- Ski Pole (optional) one each.
- Ascender.
- Helmet.
Basic training during island peak climbing
Below is an example of an 8-week training plan table tailored for preparing for an Island Peak climb. This plan blends cardiovascular endurance, strength conditioning, technical mountaineering skills, and altitude simulation—plus flexibility and mental preparation. Of course, adjust the plan as needed based on your fitness level and available resources.
Week | Cardiovascular Training | Strength & Core Work | Technical Skills | Altitude/Field Training | Flexibility & Mental Preparation |
1 | 3–4 sessions of 30-min moderate runs, cycling, or brisk walks. | 2 sessions using bodyweight exercises (squats, lunges, step-ups) with a light load. | Familiarize with gear basics—practice knot tying and rope handling indoors. | 1–2 gentle hikes on mild inclines (30–45 min). | 10–15 minutes of stretching or yoga daily. |
2 | 3 sessions, increasing run duration to around 40 min; include one interval session. | 2 sessions focusing on legs and core; incorporate light resistance or weights. | Introductory practice with ice axe handling and basic crampon fitting in a controlled setting. | Hike moderate inclines (45–60 min). | Post-session balance drills and a dedicated yoga session. |
3 | 3 sessions: one longer run (45 min) plus an interval session for varying pace. | 2 sessions: add a weighted backpack (light load) during exercises and gradually increase reps. | Practice setting and adjusting crampons; simulate slope walking indoors (if possible). | Moderate incline hike (around 60 min) to build stamina. | Extended stretching routines and yoga post-workout. |
4 | 2–3 sessions featuring one long hike (60–90 min) integrated with steady-paced cardio. | 2 sessions: increase weights/reps for leg exercises, emphasizing functional strength. | Simulate glacier traverse by practicing rope techniques and self-arrest maneuvers using training tools. | Hike on variable terrain that mimics altitude shifts with moderate difficulty. | Focus on balance training and recovery techniques; 15–20 min of stretching. |
5 | 3 sessions combining 50-min cardio and interval hill repeats to elevate the heart rate. | 2 sessions: perform circuit training for legs and core, using weighted exercises for added challenge. | Outdoor session practicing rope techniques, ice axe handling, and crampon usage under realistic conditions. | Engage in a high-incline hike or use an altitude training facility—aim for a 75-min session. | Incorporate yoga, breathing practices, and visualization exercises to boost mental readiness. |
6 | 1 long hike (90–120 min with a weighted pack) plus 2 moderate 40-min runs for endurance. | 2 sessions: a bootcamp-style full body workout focusing on power and endurance. | Field practice: attend a guided outdoor session to refine technical mountaineering skills. | If accessible, complete a small altitude trek or a high-altitude hike to simulate conditions. | Extended yoga, balance drills, and meditation sessions to reinforce recovery. |
7 | Begin to taper intensity: 2 light sessions (30–40 min) to maintain endurance without overexerting. | 1–2 light sessions for maintenance—focus on perfecting form and proper load handling. | Full gear check simulation: run through a “mini expedition day” with quick refreshers on climbing techniques. | A short, moderate hike (30–45 min) to continue subtle altitude acclimatization. | Restorative yoga and dedicated recovery time with mental prep exercises. |
8 | Light cardio: one 30-min active recovery session to keep the muscles engaged. | Minimal strength work—focus on light exercises that emphasize form and mobility. | Final technical review: check gear, review techniques, and do a calm practice session for confidence. | A controlled, short hike (around 30 min) to retain altitude familiarity. | Emphasize meditation, restorative stretching, and final mental relaxation exercises. |
This table serves as a sample blueprint to guide your training over an 8-week period. In practice, longer-term training (4–6 months) might be ideal for a challenging high-altitude expedition like Island Peak. Feel free to ask for more detailed recommendations on specific exercises or gear drills if you’d like to explore further!
Why select Holiday Tours Nepal?
- Experienced Sherpa Guides: Our team knows Island Peak inside out.
- Safety First: We prioritize your well-being with proper acclimatization and safety measures.
- Comprehensive Support: From permits to gear, we handle all logistics.
- Cultural Immersion: Experience the warmth and hospitality of Sherpa communities.
Outline Itinerary for Island Peak Climbing
- Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu.
- Day 02: Fly to Lukla, trek to Phakding.
- Day 03: Trek to Namche Bazaar.
- Day 04: Acclimatization day in Namche.
- Day 05: Trek to Tengboche.
- Day 06: Trek to Dingboche.
- Day 07: Acclimatization day in Dingboche.
- Day 08: Trek to Lobuche.
- Day 09: Trek to Gorakshep, visit Everest Base Camp.
- Day 10: Hike to Kala Patthar, return to Dingboche.
- Day 11: Trek to Chukung.
- Day 12: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp.
- Day 13: Summit Island Peak, return to Chukung.
- Day 14: Trek to Dingboche.
- Day 15: Trek to Namche.
- Day 16: Trek to Lukla.
- Day 17: Fly to Kathmandu.
- Day 18: Final departure.
Join Us for an Unforgettable Adventure
With Holiday Tours Nepal, you’ll experience the perfect blend of trekking, climbing, and cultural immersion. Whether you’re a first-time climber or an experienced adventurer, our team is dedicated to making your Island Peak climb safe, enjoyable, and unforgettable.
Contact us today to book your journey to the roof of the world!
